Puppy Care Basics

K-9 180

Basic Puppy Care and New Dog Information

I         Veterinary Care

      A)   Vaccinations are important for a puppy’s developing immune system

i)        DHPP – Distemper/Parvo Vaccine protects puppies against distemper, parvo virus, parainfluenza, and canine hepatitis.  There is a 1-year and 3-year vaccine available.  Annual titers may also be done to reduce the number of vaccines necessary throughout the life of the animal.

ii)      Rabies – this is a zoonotic disease and is a required vaccine for all dogs, cats, and ferrets.  There is a 1-year and 3-year vaccine available.  Annual titers can be done.

iii)    Bordetella – “Kennel Cough” is a very contagious disease among dogs.  It is recommended that this vaccine be updated every 6 months for optimal protection but owners may choose to update at least once a year.

      B)    Annual/Bi-Annual Visits – As dogs age much quicker than people it is recommended that you take your dog in for routine check-ups especially growing puppies and geriatric dogs.  Some routine topics that you will discuss with your veterinarian may included:

i)        Heartworm Test – heartworm disease is transmitted by mosquitoes and can be fatal.  Annual testing and prescribed monthly heartworm prevention helps to protect your dog from this preventable disease.  There are many products available on the market for the prevention of heartworm disease (some are now combined with flea protection), speak with your veterinarian about the right product for you and your dog.

ii)      Flea/Tick Prevention – some over-the-counter flea/tick products are not as effective or safe for your dog (or cat) as the products that you can purchase through your veterinarian.  It’s very important to discuss flea/tick prevention for your dog so that the best product can be used.

iii)    Parasite Test – “fecal” or “stool” sample tests can be run to check your dog for common intestinal parasites.  Some of these parasites are zoonotic meaning that they can be passed on to people or children through fecal material.

iv)    Bloodwork – puppies that are going to be neutered/spayed can have bloodwork done to check the health of the puppy prior to surgery.  As your dog ages it is recommended by some veterinarians to have routine bloodwork done as a screening for problems that can affect internal organs such as the thyroid, liver, or kidneys.

         C)    Nutrition

i)        Water – this is the most important nutrient for your dog.  Clean, fresh water should be available to your dog throughout their day.  Limiting your dog’s water intake will not prevent a dog from urinating in the house and can cause urinary problems.  (it is ok to withhold water from your dog a 2-3 hours prior to bedtime, a car ride, or when advised by your veterinarian)

ii)      Types of Dog Food - please refer to the post "Dog Food"

II      Training

      A)    Exercise – a tired dog is a happy dog.  This is a commonly used phrase and has a great deal of truth behind it.  A puppy or dog that has built up frustration from not burning off energy is going to be more difficult to train and live with. 

i)        Physical Exercise – playing with other puppies/dogs, walks, games (fetch, tug), swimming, and as the puppy gets older more vigorous activities like jogging, bicycling, and hiking.

ii)      Mental Exercise – keeping a puppy stimulated while by using food puzzles (stuffed Kong, food dispensing toy) and chew toys.  Remember chewing is a natural behavior for dogs, especially teething puppies!

      B)    Socializing – a well socialized dog is easier to care for and travel with.  Socializing a dog early in life will ensure a happy and balanced dog. 

i)        Meeting new people, dog, and animals, experiencing new places, sounds, scents, and textures.

ii)      Get your puppy used to being handled, this includes holding their paws, touching their teeth, opening the mouth, massaging the ears, and touching the tail.

      C)    Manners – well mannered dogs are easier to live with and guests appreciate a dog with good manners

i)        House training

ii)      Crate training

iii)    No jumping

iv)    Limited furniture access

      D)    Obedience – this is not just for fun but can be a real life-saver and safety for you and your dog

i)        “Watch Me” – this is used to gain your dog’s attention and focus

ii)      Recall – getting your dog to come back to you when called.  Teaching the recall command maybe one of the most important, especially around distractions and situations that can be dangerous (heavy traffic areas).

iii)    “Sit” – teaching “sit” is the basis for much of the other obedience and manners training.  Being able to ask your puppy to perform a behavior so they can get what they want (going out the door, coming out of their crate, or sitting to have their leash put on).

iv)    “Down”

v)      “Kennel” or “Bed” – being able to send your dog to their own space

vi)    “Wait” and “Stay” – these are actually two different commands.  Wait is commonly used to let a dog know that they cannot go in or out of an entryway.  Stay is used to ask a dog not to move from the position they are in until released.

vii)  Walking on a Leash – most cities and counties have leash laws that require dogs to be keep on leash when off the owner’s property.  Walks and exercise is much easier when both you and your dog can enjoy the time spent without pulling, tugging, and the potential danger from a dog that can pull you down or knock you over.

viii)            “Drop It” and “Leave It” – these commands are a safety must.  If your dog were to get something in their mouth that was not safe for them or something valuable to you, it’s nice to know that they are willing to give up the object without a chase.  The same goes for “leave it”, if something dangerous, dark chocolate candies, your puppy will refrain from taking the candies off the floor.

        E)     Equipment

i)        Leash – nylon or leather 4’ or 6’ leashes are ideal for training purposes.  Flexi-leashes are not recommended as they tend to provide a dog with too much room and can be dangerous.

ii)      Collar – selecting the appropriate collar will depend on the age, breed, size, and temperament of the dog

(a)    Nylon or Leather Buckle Collar

(b)   Herm-Springer Prong Collar

(c)    Martingale Collar

(d)   Nylon Slip Collar

(e)    Limited Slip or Greyhound Collar

(f)     Head Halter

(g)   Choke Chain

iii)    Identification

(a)    Tag – this is usually a metal tag that is attached to the dog’s collar with the owner’s contact information

(b)   Microchip – this internal device is implanted by your veterinarian or rescue organization and becomes a more permanent identification for your dog.  A microchip is about the size of a grain of rice and when scanned gives off a barcode number that is linked to the owner’s information

iv)    Treats

(a)    High Value – hot dog, boiled chicken, diced rolled dog food, lean cooked meat, peanut butter, maintain a variety

(b)   Lower Value – cheerios (plain or honey nut), milkbones, and their own dog food

v)      Toys

(a)    Kong – check for the correct size and type of Kong for your dog.  Good for your dog to chew on and can be used as a food puzzle when filled with peanut butter or canned dog food (try freezing it too!)

(i)     Kong also makes hard rubber balls great for dogs that chew up tennis balls too quickly

(b)   Nylabone – again they have many sizes and strengths to match your dog’s chewing needs

(c)    Kibble Nibble – interactive food puzzle

(d)   Tug-a-Jug – interactive food puzzle

(e)    Jolly Ball – make sturdy balls and some interactive food puzzles

III   Desensitizing – getting your puppy used to being handled by people

      A)    Grooming

i)        Ears – play with your puppy’s ears, some day they may need to have them cleaned or medication for an infection

ii)      Mouth – get your puppy used to having their mouth opened and teeth touched so that you can brush y our puppies teeth

iii)    Paws – handle your puppies paws, use a nail file or small dog nail trimmers

iv)    Fur – brush your puppy from head to tail

      B)    Handling – your puppy needs to be comfortable with being handled by multiple people

i)        Collar/leash – reward your puppy for having their collar and leash put on

ii)      Turn your puppy on its back and reward for being calm

iii)    Gently tug on your puppy’s ears, tail, paws, or fur and reward for accepting the touch (this helps especially if your puppy will be around children in the future)