Why ALL Dogs Should Receive Training

While going on a walk today with my two dogs Tucker and Lucy we were met with several challenges.  One I could only find one leash so Lucy who does not have the high level of training that Tucker does went on leash and I decided it was ok to have Tucker off leash and without an electronic collar.  As many know Tucker has recovered well from some serious behavior and physical health issues and his training has allowed him to live the life of most normal dogs instead of being euthanized.

Our first encounter was passing within 3-4 feet of someone mowing their lawn.  I did have to give Tucker a "heel" command to help keep his attention on me and not the distraction but we continued on.  We passed a cat lounging in its front yard and several backyards and homes with noisy barking dogs.  

Then we were only one house down from ours when IT happened.

That one thing we all fear when we walk our dogs.  A man came out the front door with two leashed dogs, a small miniature pinscher mix, and a huge Great Dane.  His dogs saw me and my two dogs and they were off.  The Great Dane broke, yes BROKE, his collar and came rushing towards us.  Me with my two dogs, one of which was not on leash.  I gave Tucker a 'down' command and he complied.  Lucy I told to 'sit' but her fur went up and she was ready to fend off this pony sized dog.  The Great Dane realized he was not welcome and his fur was up as he danced around me with my two dogs.  The dane's owner came rushing up letting his littler dogs to rush right up into the face of my two dogs as he attempted to wrangle his Great Dane.  

I picked up Lucy (note if I did not think she could be picked up easily she would be muzzled on every walk to prevent a fight between her and another dog for this very reason).  Lucy is a beagle/border collie mix we rescued from a kill shelter in 2008.  She is a very sweet and loving human friendly dog but she has severe fear aggression when it comes to other, especially bigger dogs.  I have no trouble walking her except in the case of loose and uncontrolled dogs (same reason dog parks are a major issue).  

The man apologized multiple times however I did not appreciate the lack of control or the thought of my safety or the safety of my dogs.  I realized that there are many people who do not understand the risk they put others and their dogs at by not having any training.  Yes your dog may just be a family pet but that does not mean they are not going to experience challenges that can pose safety issues.  If my two dogs with their severe behavior issues (reason they are living with me and not adopted out) were not well trained this situation would have ended very differently.  

This lack of training and control is how dog fights happen, people get bit, feelings are hurt, dogs get deemed "dangerous animals", laws get strict and out of control, dogs are euthanized, and lawsuits are filed.  Dog bites are a serious issue, many occur with the family structure between family dogs or bites to human family members and they go unreported.  The ones that are reported are because a strange dog bites another strange dog or person or someone suffers injury enough to require medical care.

We as dog trainers need to advocate the importance of our profession.  If you can not be in control of your dog to the point where they are breaking collars, lunging after other dogs, starting fights, or just being aggressive than you and YOUR dog need help before an accident happens.  Many people are lucky and just never end up in this situation but I KNOW that today what prevented a fight and injury was the training that I and my dogs had.

Remember to stay alert, maintain control of your dog(s), and seek help from a dog trainer if you have difficulty controlling your dog(s).  It's better to accept help before it's too late than trying to defend your dog after an accident has happened.
This Great Dane could have caused serious injury and would have if it was a person walking a leash reactive dog or a child walking their puppy.  Experience and putting myself between this dog and my dogs prevented him being able to start a fight with my dogs.  If he was people aggressive he likely would have attacked me and not just tried to attack my dogs.
Please do not assume that just because your dog does ok at home that training is something that is unnecessary.  It strengthens the bond between you and your dog.  It gives you better control should something go wrong.  Your dog will have more confidence in himself and more trust in you.

Dog Training Philosophies and Styles

Let's start with some clear cut scientific facts.

Types of Operant Conditioning - well operant conditioning for dog training means that someone is interacting with the dog.

1. Positive Reinforcement - simply put this means you are adding something (say a treat) when a dog sits to increase the behavior of the dog sitting

2. Negative Reinforcement - you are taking something away (leash pressure on the dog's collar) when a dog sits to increase the behavior of the dog sitting

3. Positive Punishment - you are adding something (discomfort on a gentle leader) to decrease the likelihood that the dog will pull on the leash

4. Negative Punishment - you are taking away something (your attention and praise) to decrease the likelihood that the dog will jump on you

Why is it important to understand these terms?  There is a LOT of misinformation and information that is presented in ways to favor different training methods and philosophies.  I want YOU to be able to understand these basic principles so that you can make your own conclusions about dog training.

Let's start by discussing some popular dog trainers.

Karen Pryor, Zac George, Victoria Stilwell, and many trainers "certified" by the Association of Pet Dog Trainers, or Animal Behavior College make up what I will refer to as the positive only dog training philosophy.  This is also includes clicker only training, many popular dog store chains, and force free training.  The positive only dog training movement believes that dogs can be trained using ONLY positive reinforcement.  Many of these trainers use devices such as gentle leaders, no pull harnesses, spray bottles, noise, citronella collars, air blasters, and other devices to supplement their treat based training methods.

Sounds great right?  It does but lets go back to those 4 types of conditioning.  What category do these devices fall under?  Are they positive reinforcement?  Clearly these gentle or force free devices must cause some type of discomfort to work.  However these trainers, many of which have been fed information in their education telling them these are not the same as prong collars, or choke chains, truly believe they are not using positive punishment.  For me it is not the equipment used on a dog but how well the dog accepts the positive punishment and if it corrects the behavior it is being used for.  After all I would not subject a dog to positive punishment if it is not decreasing the unwanted behavior.

The Dog Whisperer has also gained popularity by encouraging owners to bond with and adapt a better understanding of the canine they live with.  His techniques are sometimes very unconventional and he does from time to time get bit.  How could one not working with dogs that suffer behavioral issues, especially aggression?  A TV show made in Hollywood can encourage people to seek professional help but it leaves many trying techniques that could be damaging or unsafe without proper training or supervision from an experienced trainer.  While many would say he only uses positive punishment, there is a good deal or praise (positive reinforcement) offered to many of the dogs he works with.

From personal experience, over 10 years training dogs in two different states for everything from teaching puppy classes to training working dogs for protection it is in my opinion that training requires an understanding of the importance of all four types of conditioning.  Throughout any of my training programs I will as much as possible discuss the reason I use certain equipment in training.

K9 180 and myself adopted a balanced or mixed style of training.  We use all areas of operant conditioning in our training methods.  The aim we have is to limit the amount of stress put on the dog during training to efficiently reach a desired training or behavioral goal.  Dogs should train to build a loving and respectful bond with their owner.  Confidence, desire to learn, focus, and motivation are keys to success for the dog as much as they are for people to be successful.

Crate Training Basics

Crate Training Basics

Types of Crates

• There are two popular types of dog crates, metal wire crates and plastic airline crates.
  • A metal wire crate is easy to fold up and store, has the best ventilation, and allows your dog to see through all sides. However a metal wire crate is easy for some dogs to break out of, or pull items into resulting in injury.
  • Plastic airline crates provide adequate ventilation, are sturdier than most wire crates. K9 180 recommends plastic airline crates over wire crates when possible.
• Aluminum kennels are expensive but extremely sturdy and hold up in almost all conditions.

How Big Does The Crate Need to Be?

• Your dog’s crate needs to be large enough for them to stand up, turn around, and lay down in.
• If your dog is going to be crated for long periods we recommend going up one size to allow your dog additional room to stretch out and move around.
• When crate training to help with house training it’s important to remember that if you provide your puppy with too much room they may urinate/defecate on one side of the crate and lay down on the other. Buying and reselling used plastic crates as your puppy grows will help minimize cost until you buy a permanent crate once your puppy is full grown.

Introducing Your Dog to Their Crate

• Toss your dog’s favorite toys or treats in the crate and leave the door open
• Feed your dog their regular food in front of and eventually inside the crate
• Give your dog verbal praise for entering the crate on their own, you can even get down on the floor and pet them while they are inside the crate

Transitioning To Longer Periods in the Crate

• Give your dog a favorite toy just for crate time (make sure it is a safe toy for unsupervised use)
• Try a Kong toy stuffed with canned dog food and then frozen for longer lasting fun. Avoid using peanut butter or other high fat stuffing.
• If your dog does not destroy blankets or dog beds you can place one in your dog’s crate for them to snuggle with and lay on.

If Your Dog Has Trouble Crating

• Talk with your dog trainer and have them help evaluate any crating issues.
• Some dogs like puppies may just need time to adjust so keep crating sessions short and fun while slowly building up the length of time your dog is crated.

Wait several minutes after letting your dog out of their crate before showering them with affection. This will help your dog stay calm when it is time to go back into their crate.

Think of your dog’s crate as their private room and avoid letting other animals, people, or children from bothering them if they go to their crate.

K9 180 always tosses a biscuit in the crate with our dogs when it’s kennel time!

Basic Dog Care

K9 180

Basic Dog Care

Dogs are social animals and need to be an integrated part of their family spending as much time with other members both human and animal in the home. Isolating dogs from daily interaction can lead to numerous and serious behavioral and potential health problems.

1. Nutrition
   1. Access to fresh and clean drinking water. Limiting your dog's water intake will not prevent your dog from urinating in the house and can result in health problems.
   2. Appropriate food that meets the dog's needs.
      1. Dry Kibble that is ideally animal based protein that meets the life stage of your dog (puppy, adult, or all life stages). Check out www.dogfoodadvisor.com and remember a quality dog food is not necessarily the most expensive.
      2. Canned food can be mixed with dry kibble or fed on its own but tends to be more expensive than dry kibble. Again it should meet your dog's life stage.
      3. Home-cooked diets can offer optimal nutrition and quality control however it is very important to have a veterinarian or animal nutritionist ensure that the meals you prepare will meet your dog's needs.
      4. RAW diets can also provide your dog with ideal nutrition but proper handling of raw meat is necessary to avoid illness. Specific guidelines provided by a veterinarian or animal nutritionist is important to avoid serious health problems from incorrect mineral and vitamin imbalances.
2. Shelter
   1. Inside your dog should have a “puppy-proof” safe area where they do not need to be supervised but are protected from the elements and any dangers.
      1. Crating your dog is an easy and safe place for your dog to be while gone. Ensure that your dog's crate is a happy place to be and safe. Do not leave blankets or stuffed toys with a dog that may chew them up and ingest them.
      2. Exercise pens are especially great for puppies, smaller dogs, and even larger dogs that are trained to stay in them.
      3. Dog safe rooms are acceptable but truly need to be dog proof.
   2. Outside your dog needs a secure area where they can not escape and are safe from other animals or people. This makes fully fenced dog safe yards ideal. Include a shelter that provides them a climate controlled environment and protection from weather.
   3. Multiple dogs should not be left alone together. While your dogs may seem great together even we don't always get along with family and friends. You do not want to be gone when the one time your dogs fight over a toy, bone, or something outside the window potentially leading to injury or worse. If you choose to make an exception be honest that you understand not all scenarios can be predicted.
3. Veterinary Care
   1. Vaccinations
      1. DHPP (distemper) vaccine provides protection against canine distemper, parvovirus, parainfluenza, and adenovirus.
         1. Leptospirosis maybe included in this vaccine but is only recommended for at risk dogs. Caution should be given as this vaccine can cause serious reactions in puppies and smaller dogs.
         2. Coronavirus is used in this combination in some areas that are higher risk.
      2. Rabies vaccine is necessary for human and animal health.
      3. Lyme vaccines are available in high risk areas mainly the Northeast.
   2. Parasite Control
      1. Heartworm disease is widespread in the United States and is potentially life threatening. Annual testing is recommended and monthly heartworm prevention necessary to protect against infection.
      2. Intestinal parasites are checked for annual via a microscopic examination of a stool sample. Many heartworm preventatives also provide protection from common intestinal parasites some of which can be a human health hazard.
      3. Flea and tick control is extremely important for your dog's health and comfort. It is very important to only use flea and tick products recommended by your veterinarian or those containing the safest of ingredients. Many over-the-counter products contain ingredients that are potentially dangerous to humans and animals resulting in serious side effects including death.
4. Exercise
   1. Physical exercise includes any activity where the dog is in motion.
      1. Activity level is different for each dog based on age, breed, health status, and individual personality of your dog. Ensure that your dog is fit and healthy before starting vigorous exercise activities.
      2. Types of outdoor exercise
         1. Walking/jogging/running within your dog's fitness level.
         2. Hiking and they even make backpacks your dog can wear and carry their own food, water, and equipment. Add light weights in it for walks around the neighborhood.
         3. Bicycling with your dog can be done by holding your dog's leash or using a dog leash bicycle attachment. Training is needed to ensure your dog's comfort.
         4. Swimming in safe and dog friendly areas. Avoid strong currents.
         5. Agility training, remember not to work your dog on the same equipment every day or just like us they can get injuries.
         6. Fetch with a ball, frisbee, or retrieving dummy.
      3. Indoor dog exercise
         1. Playing fetch up and down the stairs or hallway.
         2. Treadmills are just as beneficial for your dog on days when the weather isn't nice outside as they are for you. Make sure your dog is trained properly and has an appropriate sized treadmill (some human treadmills are not long enough for the strides of medium and larger dogs).
         3. Hide and seek or “find it” games.
         4. Teaching your dog to jump through a hula hoop or over your legs.
         5. Canine body conditioning has many indoor friendly exercises.
         6. Doggie daycare or a play date with a friend or family member's dog. Ensure that they meet first on neutral ground before inviting a new dog into your home or taking your dog to someone else.
         7. Visit a pet store or any store that allows dogs. Never try to pass your dog off as a service animal if they are not a trained and provided a needed service.
   2. Mental Exercise
      1. Training your dog in obedience, tricks, tracking, agility, freestyle, or any areas you can think of challenges your dog mentally helping to keep them happy and balanced. Plus training time helps to build the bond between you and your dog.
      2. Food puzzles are an excellent way to challenge your dog and don't require your immediate attention. Kongs stuffed with dry kibble mixed with some canned food and frozen can provide a great deal of busy work for your dog. This is a great alternative to just feeding your dog the same food over and over out of a bowl.
      3. Socialization with other people, dogs, and animals can be a lot of fun. Make sure that your dog is comfortable in the social situation and enjoying themselves. Don't force your dog to be around unruly or aggressive dogs, people, or other animals. It's your job to keep your dog safe and know when they've had enough.
   3. Toys
      1. Unsupervised toys means they are safe for your dog to play with when you are not there. Ensure you watch your dog with any toy before leaving them alone. Routinely check all chew toys for wear and tear replacing them as needed.
         1. Kong toys, always ensure you get the correct size and strength for your dog. The blue Kongs are recommended as they are the strongest and show up on x-ray.
         2. GoughNuts are very tough and come in different shapes, sizes, and strengths.
         3. West Paw Designs also makes some very tough toys.
         4. Orbee makes balls and bone shaped toys.
         5. Jolly Ball without the handle or rope toy.
         6. Food puzzles such as Kong Wobbler and Buster Cubes should only be left with a dog when you know your dog will not destroy them.
         7. Varsity balls and Best balls are great but extremely hard and can injure dogs that play too long or rough with them. In addition once these types of balls are scratched sharp plastic can stick out and cause injury.
      2. Supervised interactive toys are for you to play and interact with your dog and should never be left alone for your dog to destroy.
         1. Tug toys especially ones used for training dogs for Schutzhund or bite work sports are high quality and won't fall apart as quickly as a rope toy.
         2. Tennis balls for playing fetch should never be left for a dog to chew on as they are easy to destroy and the felt can damage teeth over time.
         3. Frisbees are a lot of fun but should be replaced at the first signs of wear to avoid injury and are not a chew toy.
         4. Retrieving dummies and sticks are a fun alternative to regular fetch toys and many float providing extra fun but are not designed for chewing.
      3. Caution and potential danger is associated with the use of rawhides, nylabones, greenies, dental sticks, some latex toys, stuffed toys, rocks, and sticks can be easily destroyed and or swallowed in large pieces potentially causing choking, upset stomach, diarrhea, lodging in the gastrointestinal tract, leading to illness, injury, and possible death.
5. Socialization and Desensitizing
   1. Socialize your dog with other people, places, animals, dogs, sounds, sights, and smells. The more positive exposure your dog has the more balanced and happier they will be.
   2. Critical socialization period for puppies is between 8-12 or 16 weeks of age (socialization through the first year however is still very important). Without proper socialization irreversible behavior problems can develop.
   3. Desensitizing your dog to specific handling will make grooming and veterinary care easier.
      1. Brushing your dog's teeth will reduce the risk of dental disease which can require expensive dental cleanings from your veterinarian.
      2. Handling your dog's ears is important especially in the event that you need to medicate your dog's ears.
      3. Nail trims require handling of your dog's paws so teaching them shake and getting them comfortable with you holding on to their paws. Don't forget to include the back ones!
      4. Brushes, combs, and clippers maybe needed depending on your dog's coat but getting them excited about seeing grooming equipment from and early age makes things easy.

Are You Ready for a Dog or Puppy?

Check out our video "Are You Ready for a Dog?"

You're considering getting a dog or puppy.  That's great!  We want to discuss what dog ownership is like and help ensure that you are ready for this marvelous journey.  

Here is a checklist to get you started and asking some important questions.

1. Why do you want a dog or puppy?
2. Who will be the primary person responsible for the dog?
3. Is everyone in the family in agreement about getting a dog?
4. Calculate the estimated expenses of owning a dog
1. Annual vaccinations and tests                               $________
2. Monthly flea/tick prevention     $________ x 12 = _______
3. Monthly heartworm prevention $________ x 12 =________
4. Estimate weekly food cost         $________ x 52 = ________
5. Savings in case of illness/injury                             $________
6. TOTAL.................................................................. $________
5. What about handling these basic dog needs?
1. Morning and evening meals
2. Daily exercise and walks
3. Training
4. Socialization
5. Grooming (nail trims, brushing, baths, clipping, cutting, anal glands, ear cleaning)
6. Brushing the dog's teeth vs potential dental cleanings (surgical procedure)
7. Keeping up with basic veterinary care
6. How will the dog spend its time while
1. You're home
2. You're at work
3. On vacation
4. In event of an emergency
7. What type of fencing will you have and secure place to put your dog while gone?
1. Full fenced yard but is it secure enough to keep your dog in and other animals out?
2. Invisible fencing requires a couple weeks of training your dog while on leash
3. Fenced dog run is it escape proof for your dog
4. Tie out or cable run can be dangerous especially when a dog is left unsupervised and it allows other animals and people access to your dog
5. Crating involves proper training and sometimes getting multiple sizes of crates as a puppy grows
6. Will your dog have access to water, stimulating activities, a place to potty, air conditioning when its hot and heat when its cold?
7. Will you hire a dog walker to exercise your dog if you do not have time or take your dog to doggie daycare during the day?
8. Can your dog go with you to work?  Extra training so your dog is well behaved at work?

These are just some conversation starters and ideas to help prepare you for the commitment of owning a dog.  If you're not sure if owning a dog is right for you consider fostering a dog for a local rescue group or shelter.  If you have family or friends with a dog offer to watch their dog for a week or two (even if they're not going on vacation) to see what life is like with a dog.  This will provide you with a temporary trail of what it's like to own a dog.  Make sure that if you decide to foster for a rescue group you are honest about why you're fostering and maybe limit the time you can take a dog in to just a couple weeks.

Separation Anxiety

Signs of Separation Anxiety

• Barking, Howling, or “crying” when you leave
• Destruction of furniture, carpeting, walls, doors, windows, and anything else within the dog's reach
• Exhibiting “stress” signals as you prepare to leave

• panting
• pacing
• barking
• whining
• yawning
• jumping

• Urinating or defecating inside
• Excessive chewing or licking on themselves
• Chewing and clawing the inside of a crate

Symptoms vary from mild to severe forms of separation anxiety

Causes of Separation Anxiety

• Making it a big deal when you leave or arrive home
• Developed during a puppy's “fear period”
• Being in a shelter/kennel environment for a long period of time
• Improper crate training
• Reinforcing separation anxiety behaviors (usually without knowing it)

Managing Separation Anxiety

• Exercise
• Obedience Training
• Proper Crate Training
• Utilizing food puzzles and altering feeding schedules
• Proper departure and arrival techniques
• Prescription Medication (Veterinary Intervention)

Exercise

• A dog that has lots of energy will be more prone to SA behaviors
• Before leaving take your dog for a good walk, jog, bike ride, fetch, or any exercise that will leave them physically tired
  • exercise needs will depend on breed, age, and physical fitness level of the dog
• Make routine exercise a daily part of your dog's schedule even if you will be home all day.  If you can't hire a dog walker.  Leaving your dog in the backyard, with another dog, or at the park does not count as exercise unless your dog is engage in a physical activity.
  
  
  
  
  

Obedience Training (utilizing marker/clicker training philosophies)

• Teaching your dog basic obedience behaviors will provide your dog with a working relationship and necessary mental stimulation
• These basic obedience behaviors are great to start with
  • Sit
  • Down
  • Stay
  • Come
  • Focused Walk
• Continue training your dog finding new tricks to challenge them with
• This mental stimulation is necessary for your dog's development and helps reduce stress and build self-confidence

Proper Crate Training

• Crate Training is important in dogs with SA to prevent dogs from destroying and getting into things that could be dangerous to them
• Crates also provide a “den like” space and keep your dog in a small more confined area that can help provide a sense of security
• It is important to have a properly sized crate for your dog as one to small or large can be dangerous

Food Puzzles (Routine Feeding Schedule)

• Food Puzzles make great special toys to provide your dog with while they are crated and left alone
• It is important to use food puzzle toys that are safe (you have supervised your dog with the toy and they are not able to damage it and cause harm to themselves)
• Start with VERY high value foods (stuffed Kongs with canned food and freeze), healthy training treats for Kibble Nibbles, Bob-a-Lots, or Kong Wobblers and eventually move to lower value treats or their regular dog food
• Keep your dog on a routine feeding schedule so that they will be hungry and excited over the food puzzle
  • If you leave for work in the morning instead of giving your dog a bowl of food provide them with a food puzzle that will meet their nutritional needs for that feeding
• Do not feed your dog or do a lot of food reward training right before departure

Refer to our handout on Dog Toys and Safety as a guideline to toys that may be best suited for your dog's size and chewing ability

How to Depart Your Home with a SA Dog

• Do NOT make a fuss about leaving
• Don't pay attention to your dog for 10-15 minutes prior to leaving
• Provide your dog with a food puzzle in their crate before starting your departing routine
• Make your departure quick and quiet
  • Have your shoes, purse/wallet, keys at the door and ready to go
  • The quicker and quieter your departure the better

How to Arrive Home to Greet Your SA Dog

• If your dog is capable of waiting to go out and use the restroom wait until they settle down before letting them out of their crate (5-30 minutes)
• Train your dog to “sit” or “down” before they are allowed out of their crate
• Once your dog is out of their crate do not pay them any attention other than putting them on a leash and taking them outside to use the bathroom
• Ignore your dog for the first 15 minutes or until your dog is in a relaxed state
• Have your dog “sit” before providing them with attention and praise

Additional Techniques

• If it is safe to do so place a piece of clothing such as a t-shirt that has been worn in the crate with your dog so that they have your smell close by
  • You can also put a towel fresh from the dryer (not too hot!) in the crate with your dog
• Play soothing classical music or ambient noise for your dog while you are gone, this can help reduce stress from noises outside their crate, room, or house
• Give your dog a favorite toy before you leave

Prescription Medication and Veterinary Intervention

• For dogs with severe separation anxiety it is sometimes necessary to seek veterinary intervention and the use of drugs
• All medications have side effects and it is best to use this option as a last resort or only for dogs that have severe SA and pose a danger to themselves

Aversion Training

• For some dogs specific training can be used to create an aversion to potentially dangerous or life-threatening behaviors
• This training does NOT fix the root cause of the dog's SA but can prevent or eliminate dangerous SA behaviors

Separation Anxiety requires daily dedication from the owner to help the dog over come this behavior issue and length of training needs will vary between dogs

Case Study Midnight: Handling a Food Aggressive Dog

Midnight is a 3-5 year old Mastiff mix that was rescued from a negligent home where he was not fed regularly, left outside in a small space, and attacked by other dogs.  This dog failed the food aggression portion of the local humane society's admission test on temperament twice (the second time after the rescuer worked with the dog for several weeks following guidelines from a dog training book focusing on food aggression).  He displayed a high level of food aggressive behavior by growling, showing his teeth, and lifting his head from the bowl to direct his aggression at the "fake arm" with his aggression increasing the longer the "fake arm" was near the food bowl.  Based on his severe level of food aggression he was not even capable of being acceptable into their behavior modification program.  Here are the videos of Midnight's progress throughout his 3 week stay in our home at K9 180.

Day 1 of Training and Entry Evaluation

Day 3 Into Training

Week 2 of Training

Week 3 of Training

Final Day of Training and Exit Evaluation 

At the end of Midnight's training he produced a small growl at the humane society's temperament evaluation around canned food but relaxed quickly allowing the "fake arm" to move around in his food bowl.  Midnight has passed their temperament test and is now able to be admitted into the rescue where he will continue a behavior modification program to work on any remaining food issues before being adopted.