Exercise

There are two types of exercise that we will focus on

• Physical Exercise - Every dog is an individual and while some dogs may only need a daily romp in the yard others may need long jogs twice a day.  What this comes down to is figuring out how much physical exercise your dog needs every day and a way to meet that need.
• Mental Exercise – As with physical exercise some dogs get enough mental stimulation watching out the front door, others need to track scents, herd sheep, learn new tricks or solve puzzles.

Both forms of exercise are important to a dog’s health and balance.  A dog that is not getting the physical or mental exercise it needs is likely to be unhappy, destructive, aggressive, have poor manners, or become prone to obesity.

                                         

Physical Exercise

            To begin with it is best to determine the level of exercise that your dog needs.  Once it’s understood how much physical exercise is needed a way to incorporate that into your lifestyle is necessary so that the dog can be provided with a good quality of living.  A balanced dog is happier, easier to train, and more sociable. Talk to your vet before starting an exercise program as younger, older, over/over weight dog, or dogs with special health needs may have limitations.

Types of physical exercise may include:

• Walking - if it's yucky weather go to a pet store to walk around!
• Jogging
• Swimming - swim in safe areas and have your dog use a lifejacket for safety
• Hiking
• Biking
• Playing fetch - can be done inside as well if it's too cold out

They do not include letting the dog roam outside, putting the dog in the backyard, or doggie daycare. 

Doggie daycare can be physical and mental exercise for a dog but should not entirely replace the structured physical exercise a dog needs to have with their owner.  Caution should be used when taking a dog to daycare or dog parks. 

Mental Exercise

            Again determine the level of mental stimulation that your dog needs.  Your dog maybe content calmly watching the birds and traffic outside of your window but would likely benefit from more.

Types of mental exercise may include:

•  Food Puzzles – Bob-a-lot, Buster Food Cube, Kibble Nibble, Tug-a-Jug
• Stuffed Kong – these can be stuffed with peanut butter or canned dog food and frozen
• Training – obedience training, agility, carting, scent detection, or other advanced training
• Socializing – dog parks, doggie daycare, playdates
• Environments – visiting pet stores, vet offices, parks, outdoor restaurants, new neighborhoods, farmer’s markets, festivals, anyplace that is safe for and allows your dog
• Toys – raw bones, nylabones, rawhides (if safe for your dog’s chewing habits), tug toys, or balls.  View our post on toys or talk with your vet to find the best toys for your dog!

The purpose of mental exercise is to keep your dog’s mind active.  Imagine having nothing to do all day except stare at four walls and a backyard.  No errands, work, chores, or friends visiting may sound nice for a day or two but after a while cabin fever sets in. 

A well exercised dog, or pack, is a tired and happy pack!

Remember

·         A bored dog with pent up energy is much more likely to be destructive and poorly mannered.

·         Physical and mental exercise is the foundations for a balanced happy dog.

·         Exercise as part of a lifestyle isn’t just healthy for your dog but for you too! 

Dog Toys

Chew Toys – once you find the correct chew toy that is safe for your dog you will be able to leave it out with them or in their crate

• Nylabone – Choose the correct type (puppy to extreme chewers) and size, I recommend going up a size especially for extreme chewers.
• Kong – Come in a puppy, adult, extreme, or senior type, sized based on weight.  Great toy when filled with canned dog food and frozen.
• GoughNuts – this donut shaped rubber toy is nearly indestructible and comes with a manufacturer guarantee (they stand by their product!)

      Food Puzzles – great ways for your dog to work for their food and keep them busy

• Bob-a-Lot – Fill this toy with your dog’s regular dry food.
• Tug-a-Jug – Same as above.  Be careful with the “rope” that stuck inside of this toy, many dogs and chew it apart and rope is not good for the stomach.
• Kong Wobbler – Same as above but no rope danger.

Other Toys – put these up once you’re done playing with your dog as they are not chew toys.

• Tugs – If you have a dog with a strong drive playing tug with a jute tug can be great fun.  Teach your dog to “release” command, and always be the one in control of the game.  Don’t let young children play tug with the dog.
• Kong Rubber Balls – These hold up much better than a tennis ball
• Jolly Ball – Hard rubber ball with a triangular handle on it, dogs can chew up the handle pretty easy so use it as a fetch toy only while supervised.
• Orbee-Tuff Ball – This ball sometimes is sold on a rope, remember to teach your dog to grab the ball, not the rope.  Again not a chew toy.
• Kong or Nylabone Frisbee – great for fetch, not meant as a chew toy.

Toys NOT Recommended or with Caution

• Stuffed animals or kids toys, shoes, even old ones that you don’t wear
• Cooked bones
• Rawhides/Dental Bones – watch your dog to determine if their chewing style is acceptable for them to have rawhides
• Here's a link to the ASPCA's Statement on Dog Chews/Treats

Remember there is no toy that is 100% indestructible.  Always supervise your dog with a new toy.  If a toy begins to show wear throw it away and replace it.

Puppy Care Basics

K-9 180

Basic Puppy Care and New Dog Information

I         Veterinary Care

      A)   Vaccinations are important for a puppy’s developing immune system

i)        DHPP – Distemper/Parvo Vaccine protects puppies against distemper, parvo virus, parainfluenza, and canine hepatitis.  There is a 1-year and 3-year vaccine available.  Annual titers may also be done to reduce the number of vaccines necessary throughout the life of the animal.

ii)      Rabies – this is a zoonotic disease and is a required vaccine for all dogs, cats, and ferrets.  There is a 1-year and 3-year vaccine available.  Annual titers can be done.

iii)    Bordetella – “Kennel Cough” is a very contagious disease among dogs.  It is recommended that this vaccine be updated every 6 months for optimal protection but owners may choose to update at least once a year.

      B)    Annual/Bi-Annual Visits – As dogs age much quicker than people it is recommended that you take your dog in for routine check-ups especially growing puppies and geriatric dogs.  Some routine topics that you will discuss with your veterinarian may included:

i)        Heartworm Test – heartworm disease is transmitted by mosquitoes and can be fatal.  Annual testing and prescribed monthly heartworm prevention helps to protect your dog from this preventable disease.  There are many products available on the market for the prevention of heartworm disease (some are now combined with flea protection), speak with your veterinarian about the right product for you and your dog.

ii)      Flea/Tick Prevention – some over-the-counter flea/tick products are not as effective or safe for your dog (or cat) as the products that you can purchase through your veterinarian.  It’s very important to discuss flea/tick prevention for your dog so that the best product can be used.

iii)    Parasite Test – “fecal” or “stool” sample tests can be run to check your dog for common intestinal parasites.  Some of these parasites are zoonotic meaning that they can be passed on to people or children through fecal material.

iv)    Bloodwork – puppies that are going to be neutered/spayed can have bloodwork done to check the health of the puppy prior to surgery.  As your dog ages it is recommended by some veterinarians to have routine bloodwork done as a screening for problems that can affect internal organs such as the thyroid, liver, or kidneys.

         C)    Nutrition

i)        Water – this is the most important nutrient for your dog.  Clean, fresh water should be available to your dog throughout their day.  Limiting your dog’s water intake will not prevent a dog from urinating in the house and can cause urinary problems.  (it is ok to withhold water from your dog a 2-3 hours prior to bedtime, a car ride, or when advised by your veterinarian)

ii)      Types of Dog Food - please refer to the post "Dog Food"

II      Training

      A)    Exercise – a tired dog is a happy dog.  This is a commonly used phrase and has a great deal of truth behind it.  A puppy or dog that has built up frustration from not burning off energy is going to be more difficult to train and live with. 

i)        Physical Exercise – playing with other puppies/dogs, walks, games (fetch, tug), swimming, and as the puppy gets older more vigorous activities like jogging, bicycling, and hiking.

ii)      Mental Exercise – keeping a puppy stimulated while by using food puzzles (stuffed Kong, food dispensing toy) and chew toys.  Remember chewing is a natural behavior for dogs, especially teething puppies!

      B)    Socializing – a well socialized dog is easier to care for and travel with.  Socializing a dog early in life will ensure a happy and balanced dog. 

i)        Meeting new people, dog, and animals, experiencing new places, sounds, scents, and textures.

ii)      Get your puppy used to being handled, this includes holding their paws, touching their teeth, opening the mouth, massaging the ears, and touching the tail.

      C)    Manners – well mannered dogs are easier to live with and guests appreciate a dog with good manners

i)        House training

ii)      Crate training

iii)    No jumping

iv)    Limited furniture access

      D)    Obedience – this is not just for fun but can be a real life-saver and safety for you and your dog

i)        “Watch Me” – this is used to gain your dog’s attention and focus

ii)      Recall – getting your dog to come back to you when called.  Teaching the recall command maybe one of the most important, especially around distractions and situations that can be dangerous (heavy traffic areas).

iii)    “Sit” – teaching “sit” is the basis for much of the other obedience and manners training.  Being able to ask your puppy to perform a behavior so they can get what they want (going out the door, coming out of their crate, or sitting to have their leash put on).

iv)    “Down”

v)      “Kennel” or “Bed” – being able to send your dog to their own space

vi)    “Wait” and “Stay” – these are actually two different commands.  Wait is commonly used to let a dog know that they cannot go in or out of an entryway.  Stay is used to ask a dog not to move from the position they are in until released.

vii)  Walking on a Leash – most cities and counties have leash laws that require dogs to be keep on leash when off the owner’s property.  Walks and exercise is much easier when both you and your dog can enjoy the time spent without pulling, tugging, and the potential danger from a dog that can pull you down or knock you over.

viii)            “Drop It” and “Leave It” – these commands are a safety must.  If your dog were to get something in their mouth that was not safe for them or something valuable to you, it’s nice to know that they are willing to give up the object without a chase.  The same goes for “leave it”, if something dangerous, dark chocolate candies, your puppy will refrain from taking the candies off the floor.

        E)     Equipment

i)        Leash – nylon or leather 4’ or 6’ leashes are ideal for training purposes.  Flexi-leashes are not recommended as they tend to provide a dog with too much room and can be dangerous.

ii)      Collar – selecting the appropriate collar will depend on the age, breed, size, and temperament of the dog

(a)    Nylon or Leather Buckle Collar

(b)   Herm-Springer Prong Collar

(c)    Martingale Collar

(d)   Nylon Slip Collar

(e)    Limited Slip or Greyhound Collar

(f)     Head Halter

(g)   Choke Chain

iii)    Identification

(a)    Tag – this is usually a metal tag that is attached to the dog’s collar with the owner’s contact information

(b)   Microchip – this internal device is implanted by your veterinarian or rescue organization and becomes a more permanent identification for your dog.  A microchip is about the size of a grain of rice and when scanned gives off a barcode number that is linked to the owner’s information

iv)    Treats

(a)    High Value – hot dog, boiled chicken, diced rolled dog food, lean cooked meat, peanut butter, maintain a variety

(b)   Lower Value – cheerios (plain or honey nut), milkbones, and their own dog food

v)      Toys

(a)    Kong – check for the correct size and type of Kong for your dog.  Good for your dog to chew on and can be used as a food puzzle when filled with peanut butter or canned dog food (try freezing it too!)

(i)     Kong also makes hard rubber balls great for dogs that chew up tennis balls too quickly

(b)   Nylabone – again they have many sizes and strengths to match your dog’s chewing needs

(c)    Kibble Nibble – interactive food puzzle

(d)   Tug-a-Jug – interactive food puzzle

(e)    Jolly Ball – make sturdy balls and some interactive food puzzles

III   Desensitizing – getting your puppy used to being handled by people

      A)    Grooming

i)        Ears – play with your puppy’s ears, some day they may need to have them cleaned or medication for an infection

ii)      Mouth – get your puppy used to having their mouth opened and teeth touched so that you can brush y our puppies teeth

iii)    Paws – handle your puppies paws, use a nail file or small dog nail trimmers

iv)    Fur – brush your puppy from head to tail

      B)    Handling – your puppy needs to be comfortable with being handled by multiple people

i)        Collar/leash – reward your puppy for having their collar and leash put on

ii)      Turn your puppy on its back and reward for being calm

iii)    Gently tug on your puppy’s ears, tail, paws, or fur and reward for accepting the touch (this helps especially if your puppy will be around children in the future)

Dog Food

Wow!  This is always a HUGE topic of debate among breeders, veterinarians, dog trainers, commercial dog food companies, and has spent a lot of time in the media.
I will start by simply breaking down the categories of different types of dog food and review the pros, the cons, and what is important to you and your dog.

Fresh Dog Foods - these would be the dog foods that you find in the refrigerated section of grocery and pet stores.  Personally they are my favorite and here are the reasons why.
      1. Convenience - you don't have to go through a lot of trouble.  Some come in meatball shapes so that you can measure it out like dry dog food or rolls that you slice like thick bologna.  However you do have to be careful and ensure that you use the food within a week of opening just like our food.
      2. Nutrition - these foods offer high quality proteins, low grains, and generally aren't too high in fat.
Dry Dog Food - the most common dog food available, there are hundreds of brands, each with different sub-brands, flavors, styles, ect...most are heavily marketed large companies.
      1. Convenience - the number one reason to feed dry dog food is because it is convenient, easy to store and doesn't spoil quickly.
      2. Nutrition - unfortunately dry dog foods have a much harder time of getting quality ingredients and being nutritious for you pet.  There are some great quality dry dog foods out there Orijen, Innova, Merrick, Taste of the Wild, Blue, the list goes on with the great quality dry dog foods.  However you will be paying for them as a 20lb bag can cost up to $70.  They will also likely require a trip to a pet store or even specialty pet store as most grocery stores don't yet carry these high end brands.
Canned Dog Food - the second most commonly found dog food.  While there are quality canned dog foods, mostly ones made by the high quality commercial dog food companies, most found in grocery stores are not.
      1. Convenient - Moderately, you have to open the can, put it in the bowl, and possibly refrigerate any leftovers so that they do not spoil.
      2. Nutrition - There are some very nutritious canned dog foods but you will likely pay $2-3/can which can add up quickly when feeding a large dog.  Lower costing canned foods tend to have lots of fillers and be high in fat.  Canned dog food can also have poor side effects on your dog's dental health.
RAW Dog Food - these foods have recently become extremely popular and are available in frozen patties, frozen meatballs, freeze-dried styles, and fresh.
      1. Convenience - Certain brands have made the frozen and freeze-dried styles of raw dog food relatively convenient to feed as long as they are stored properly.  However raw dog food does present the same risks to human health as any raw meat.  Therefore careful preparation of the food and disinfecting of surfaces is necessary.  You also may not want your dog licking you following a meal.
      2. Nutrition - High scores go to this category for nutritional value as the brands that tend to produce these diets go to lengths to ensure they are using high quality ingredients.  Cost will be a factor with this style of dog food.  You will have to understand that you are also accepting risks of exposure to bacteria and parasites if these foods are not properly handled.
Homemade Dog Food - making your own dog food
      1. Convenient - This is definitely not a convenient way to feed your dog. Preparing a properly nutritious meal for your dog takes lots of education, prep time, and required storage in a refrigerator or freezer. If you want to feed a homemade diet it is best to talk with your veterinarian and have routine check ups to ensure that your dog's diet is meeting their nutritional needs.  There is considerable a lot of work to be done to feed your dog a healthy completely homemade diet.
      2. Nutrition - A proper homemade diet can be extremely nutritious for your dog as you will likely be using human grade ingredients.  While one would think the cost would be high, done properly a homemade diet can be affordable if care is taken with your ingredient purchases.

All in all how do you know what is best for you and your dog?  Here's what it really comes down to.  Feed your dog a food that is nutritious.  One that has high quality meats, low in grains, and as few fillers as you can afford.  Make sure you are comfortable with the type of food you are feeding your dog.  While a fresh, raw, or homemade diet might sound more nutritious there are several great brands of dry dog food available to make feeding more convenient.  Plus you can always supplement with an occasional can of salmon, or a package of fresh dog food.

While table scraps are a poor choice mostly due to our own unhealthy eating habits a little scrambled egg, unseasoned lean meats, and even some cooked veggies are great additions to a dog's food bowl (please avoid feeding your dog from the table).

If your dog has any health conditions speak with your veterinarian to find a diet that will help your dog as many health conditions require special diets with different nutritional content.  A dog on medications may also have certain foods that should be avoided all together.

If all else fails just try to feed your dog the best dog food you can afford at the time.  Even I survived a few weeks here and there in college eating nothing but Ramen Noodles.  If there's a few weeks where you have to cut down to something more economical until you can go back to a higher grade food don't worry.  It's the long term nutrition that we're going for.

Any dog food means that you are caring for you companion as best as possible and a loving owner and any bowl of food is going to equal a dog happy to see you every day.

If you're looking for specific information regarding a brand of dog food check out the
DogFoodAdvisor as they have reviewed and rated many brands of dog food.  You'll find great information on nutritional content here as well as how to read the ingredients label.

Choosing a Dog Trainer

How to choose a great dog trainer!

It can be very difficult to choose a dog trainer so I want to point out some key things to look for.

1. Contact - any good dog trainer or business will return any messages within 24 hours.  If it takes multiple attempts to contact the trainer or business how are they going to make time for your appointments.  Remember that just because a trainer doesn't train full-time does not mean they are not qualified or a good trainer.  Many dog trainers that work full-time have to supplement with boarding, breeding, pet sitting, grooming, and other services.

2. References - a dog trainer should be able to provide you with professional and client based references upon request.  They may even have testimonials on their website.

3. Customer Service - although a dog trainer trains dogs they should be very friendly and personable.  If you aren't getting a good "vibe" keep looking!

4. Professionalism - they should have a website or social media page, business cards, and shirts/jackets with their company information and logo.

5. Media - the more photos and videos that a trainer posts the better!  If they train so many dogs they should have lots of photos and videos to show off.  Look for videos that a unedited, a heavily edited video will only highlight the best parts of the training, so uncut and unedited will give you the best of a trainers ability.

6. Training Styles - there are multiple different styles of dog training ranging from Clicker Training (Karen Pryor style), tradition leash and collar training, and remote collar training.  Great trainers are educated in many different styles of dog training and can customize a training style that will best suite your dogs breed, age, temperament, and behavior.  If you search the web you will find advocates of certain styles as well as out dated information about traditional leash and collar work and older styles of remote training.  The most important factors are that the training is humane and effective.

Things to watch out for!

1. Trainers that only use one style of training.

2. Sending your dog away for training without follow up private instruction with you and the trainer.

3. Read reviews of the trainer/business and see what people have to say. If you have any concerns about reviews you have seen bring them up to the trainer.

4. Avoid trainers that speak badly about other trainers or training styles.

5. Remember if you aren't getting a good feeling or don't like how the trainer is treating you or your dog don't continue training with them. Training should be a positive experience building a respectful and trusting relationship between you and your dog.

Costs vary depending on region, trainer's experience, private vs. group lessons, and how much training you plan to do with your dog. Remember a well trained dog will allow you to take the dog with you more places, visitors in your home will enjoy your well behaved canine, and you'll be setting a good example of proper dog ownership! It's worth the time and investment to have a dog that you enjoy spending time with!

If you ever have any questions feel free to ask or contact me via email or our facebook page at K9 180!

Thanks,

Krystal

K-9 180

Welcome!

I am opening this blog to provide information on dog training, health, behavior, rescue animals, and fun information all about canines!

This is my first blog so please be patient as I learn how to best use the service.

If you have any questions you may email me or contact me on our facebook page at K-9 180!

Thanks and enjoy!

Krystal