Separation Anxiety

Signs of Separation Anxiety

• Barking, Howling, or “crying” when you leave
• Destruction of furniture, carpeting, walls, doors, windows, and anything else within the dog's reach
• Exhibiting “stress” signals as you prepare to leave

• panting
• pacing
• barking
• whining
• yawning
• jumping

• Urinating or defecating inside
• Excessive chewing or licking on themselves
• Chewing and clawing the inside of a crate

Symptoms vary from mild to severe forms of separation anxiety

Causes of Separation Anxiety

• Making it a big deal when you leave or arrive home
• Developed during a puppy's “fear period”
• Being in a shelter/kennel environment for a long period of time
• Improper crate training
• Reinforcing separation anxiety behaviors (usually without knowing it)

Managing Separation Anxiety

• Exercise
• Obedience Training
• Proper Crate Training
• Utilizing food puzzles and altering feeding schedules
• Proper departure and arrival techniques
• Prescription Medication (Veterinary Intervention)

Exercise

• A dog that has lots of energy will be more prone to SA behaviors
• Before leaving take your dog for a good walk, jog, bike ride, fetch, or any exercise that will leave them physically tired
  • exercise needs will depend on breed, age, and physical fitness level of the dog
• Make routine exercise a daily part of your dog's schedule even if you will be home all day.  If you can't hire a dog walker.  Leaving your dog in the backyard, with another dog, or at the park does not count as exercise unless your dog is engage in a physical activity.
  
  
  
  
  

Obedience Training (utilizing marker/clicker training philosophies)

• Teaching your dog basic obedience behaviors will provide your dog with a working relationship and necessary mental stimulation
• These basic obedience behaviors are great to start with
  • Sit
  • Down
  • Stay
  • Come
  • Focused Walk
• Continue training your dog finding new tricks to challenge them with
• This mental stimulation is necessary for your dog's development and helps reduce stress and build self-confidence

Proper Crate Training

• Crate Training is important in dogs with SA to prevent dogs from destroying and getting into things that could be dangerous to them
• Crates also provide a “den like” space and keep your dog in a small more confined area that can help provide a sense of security
• It is important to have a properly sized crate for your dog as one to small or large can be dangerous

Food Puzzles (Routine Feeding Schedule)

• Food Puzzles make great special toys to provide your dog with while they are crated and left alone
• It is important to use food puzzle toys that are safe (you have supervised your dog with the toy and they are not able to damage it and cause harm to themselves)
• Start with VERY high value foods (stuffed Kongs with canned food and freeze), healthy training treats for Kibble Nibbles, Bob-a-Lots, or Kong Wobblers and eventually move to lower value treats or their regular dog food
• Keep your dog on a routine feeding schedule so that they will be hungry and excited over the food puzzle
  • If you leave for work in the morning instead of giving your dog a bowl of food provide them with a food puzzle that will meet their nutritional needs for that feeding
• Do not feed your dog or do a lot of food reward training right before departure

Refer to our handout on Dog Toys and Safety as a guideline to toys that may be best suited for your dog's size and chewing ability

How to Depart Your Home with a SA Dog

• Do NOT make a fuss about leaving
• Don't pay attention to your dog for 10-15 minutes prior to leaving
• Provide your dog with a food puzzle in their crate before starting your departing routine
• Make your departure quick and quiet
  • Have your shoes, purse/wallet, keys at the door and ready to go
  • The quicker and quieter your departure the better

How to Arrive Home to Greet Your SA Dog

• If your dog is capable of waiting to go out and use the restroom wait until they settle down before letting them out of their crate (5-30 minutes)
• Train your dog to “sit” or “down” before they are allowed out of their crate
• Once your dog is out of their crate do not pay them any attention other than putting them on a leash and taking them outside to use the bathroom
• Ignore your dog for the first 15 minutes or until your dog is in a relaxed state
• Have your dog “sit” before providing them with attention and praise

Additional Techniques

• If it is safe to do so place a piece of clothing such as a t-shirt that has been worn in the crate with your dog so that they have your smell close by
  • You can also put a towel fresh from the dryer (not too hot!) in the crate with your dog
• Play soothing classical music or ambient noise for your dog while you are gone, this can help reduce stress from noises outside their crate, room, or house
• Give your dog a favorite toy before you leave

Prescription Medication and Veterinary Intervention

• For dogs with severe separation anxiety it is sometimes necessary to seek veterinary intervention and the use of drugs
• All medications have side effects and it is best to use this option as a last resort or only for dogs that have severe SA and pose a danger to themselves

Aversion Training

• For some dogs specific training can be used to create an aversion to potentially dangerous or life-threatening behaviors
• This training does NOT fix the root cause of the dog's SA but can prevent or eliminate dangerous SA behaviors

Separation Anxiety requires daily dedication from the owner to help the dog over come this behavior issue and length of training needs will vary between dogs

Case Study Midnight: Handling a Food Aggressive Dog

Midnight is a 3-5 year old Mastiff mix that was rescued from a negligent home where he was not fed regularly, left outside in a small space, and attacked by other dogs.  This dog failed the food aggression portion of the local humane society's admission test on temperament twice (the second time after the rescuer worked with the dog for several weeks following guidelines from a dog training book focusing on food aggression).  He displayed a high level of food aggressive behavior by growling, showing his teeth, and lifting his head from the bowl to direct his aggression at the "fake arm" with his aggression increasing the longer the "fake arm" was near the food bowl.  Based on his severe level of food aggression he was not even capable of being acceptable into their behavior modification program.  Here are the videos of Midnight's progress throughout his 3 week stay in our home at K9 180.

Day 1 of Training and Entry Evaluation

Day 3 Into Training

Week 2 of Training

Week 3 of Training

Final Day of Training and Exit Evaluation 

At the end of Midnight's training he produced a small growl at the humane society's temperament evaluation around canned food but relaxed quickly allowing the "fake arm" to move around in his food bowl.  Midnight has passed their temperament test and is now able to be admitted into the rescue where he will continue a behavior modification program to work on any remaining food issues before being adopted.

Raina Week 1 Training Update

Raina Week 1 Update

Video of Raina Inside
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mQLBEZoRhIc

Video of Raina Outside
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=48gtm2oeJJI

More Training Videos

Tucker doing off leash obedience in the rain


Raina's first day with us


Odin Marker Training Demo

Henry Training Videos

Henry's Training Videos (before and after)

K-9 180 Henry training intro

Here is Henry's intro to training video. The 
first few days Henry was unsure about
training. He did not sit or down reliably, 
had to be walked by holding his collar to 
get him into his kennel, and was very 
mouthy using his teeth to get attention or
prevent you from handling his feet, paws,
ears, or collar.





K-9 180 Henry progress

This video is at the end of Henry's 2 weeks of in home training. He 
has made a LOT of progress and will return after a few private 
training lessons with his owners to complete another more advanced
obedience course. Henry is playful and friendly with the other dogs,
he allows his feet to be handled and only takes one person to trim 
his nails! Henry is working on his confidence jumping in and out of 
big SUVs. He walks very nicely on leash, sits, downs, and will go to
 his bed with a simple verbal and hand signal. No more mouthy
 behavior and all that positive marker training has really helped to 
build his confidence and motivation for training. I can't wait for
 him to be back for another stay and see how far he goes!

Training Videos

Wanted to post some of the older training videos that I have taken over the years just for fun.  Enjoy!

Meet the 2010 Pack

Indoor Agility Fun

Intro to Clicker Training

Tucker Crazy Off-Leash Reliability Test

Tucker Off-Leash Obedience

Tucker Long Distance Recalls

Yuska Personal Protection

Cannon Protection Video

Cannon Protection Video 2

Tucker Personal Protection Courage Test

Tucker Personal Protection Courage Test (better video in black & white)

Tucker Vehicle Protection

Odin, Our New Puppy!

Welcome to the family Odin!

Odin is a 3 and a half month old male Double Doodle (25% lab, 25% golden, 50% poodle) mix.  He weighs in a 20lbs and is absolutely adorable!  He will be a star in some up coming training videos on clicker training, house training, and how to handle common puppy problems.  We have a very informal blog to keep track of Odin's progress and day to day activities.  Check it out below

Odin Puppy Diaries

Intro to Clicker Training

So we have touched on some methods of training, reviewed training equipment, talked about socializing our dogs, and keeping them exercised and healthy.  It's time to tackle some actual dog training.  I like to start all dogs off with clicker/marker training first.  This provides a positive foundation for training encouraging the dog to want to work and building your relationship.

Please check out this video on our intro to clicker training your dog!
K9 180 Intro to Clicker Training

Here's a list of the items used in this training video

1. Treat Pouch - you can use a clean tool pouch as well!
2. Training Treats - we want high value treats, here are some great ideas
1. Bil-Jac
2. Pet Fresh or Deli Fresh rolled dog food cut into small bite sized pieces
3. Hot Dog pieces - try to limit hot dogs as they aren't as healthy for your dog
4. Bits of Cook Unseasoned Chicken or Beef - again cut to a good size
3. Clicker - you can get these off the internet or at your local pet store

Treat Size - depending on the size of your dog we are looking for a treat size of a pea or cheerio

You want a treat that is not hard or crunchy.  We want our dog to be able to consume it quickly and easily.

So how do I feed my dog while clicker training?

I recommend feeding your dog twice a day.  If you dog is free fed right now start out by putting dog food out twice a day for 15 minutes and then pick it back up.  I promise your dog will eat when they are hungry.  Make sure you're using a high quality food and that your veterinarian doesn't have any special feeding guidelines.  Young puppies (dogs under 12 months) should be fed 3 times a day when possible.

You're clicker training session should come before a regular feeding time.  Ex: my dogs eat at 7am and 6pm about every day.  So our clicker training sessions should be at 6:30am and/or 5:30pm so that my dogs are at their hungriest point and ready for their meal.

For young puppies and smaller dogs their clicker training session can very easily replace a meal so make sure that you remove food from your dogs regular feeding based on the amount of healthy treats they get during training.

Puppy Training Understanding the Foundation

It's very important to start a new puppy off right. Laying the foundation for training is critical and will build a lasting relationship between you and your new puppy. This is going to start out with a specific style of positive reinforcement training known as clicker training or marker training. The only difference between clicker training and marker training is that with clicker training you use a clicker to mark a behavior and then follow with a food reward, while in marker training you use a word such as "yes" to mark the behavior and follow with the reward. Personally I have used and am comfortable with both methods of training.

Clicker training

• Pros - You get the exact same sound every time you click the clicker which is great for consistency.  There are more books and information available on clicker training, and you can buy clickers at almost every pet store.
• Cons - You have to have the clicker on you almost all the time. It can be difficult to handle holding a clicker, working with the food rewards, and your puppy all at once.

Marker Training

• Pros - You don't need anything but your voice and a reward. It can be a little easier to balance marker training than handling a clicker.
• Cons - It is harder to keep your marker word such as "yes" consistent every time.  There is not quite as much literature on marker training but it is the same principle as clicker training your just replacing the clicker with a marker word "yes".

Why do we want to use this training with our puppies?

This style of training is going to be positive for your puppy, build a solid foundation for future training, and it's easy to recover from any mistakes.  It is best for one person in a family to be responsible for the puppy's early training.  However there are several times when a second hand in training exercises is very useful.

Basis for this training also lies in your ability to control your new puppy's environment. I highly recommend crate and x-pen training. This is just like having a crib and playpen for a young toddler.  The crate and x-pen allows you to reinforce good potty training behaviors and keeps your puppy from getting into any trouble in the first place. You wouldn't leave a 2 year old child loose for an hour in the house unsupervised so why do we expect our puppies to stay out of trouble? 

This comes down to a 1, 2, 3 foundation with a pup.

1. The puppy is confined in a crate or x-pen
2. The puppy is in a secure and safe outside area under indirect supervision
3. The puppy is under your direct supervision.

Let's review direct supervision, this means the all of your focus and attention is on the puppy, not cooking, laundry, chores, or paperwork.  If your puppy only spends 1-2 quality hours outside of a crate per day that is better than a puppy left loose unsupervised in a house of yard where they risk injury, escape, and will pick up bad sometimes dangerous behaviors.  With that being said of course a young puppy needs a structured house training schedule.  

A rough concept is the dog should be able to hold it's bladder for as many hours as it is months old (Ex: 4 month old puppy 4 hours).  This doesn't include that a puppy will also need to use the restroom after eating, after drinking lots of water, after play time or training sessions, and any time the pup gets excited and shows signs of getting ready to use the restroom.  Of course if the puppy is out of it's crate it will be under your supervision so as soon as the puppy squats it's picked up, rushed outside, and then praised enthusiastically for going outside to use the bathroom.

The purpose of this training has a few layers.  The big picture is that we want the puppy to look to us for everything.  We want a dog who sees us as their source of food, fun, play, meals, potty breaks, safety, protection...a dog who sees us as their best friend and leader.

Utilizing and controlling a puppy or dog's food is extremely powerful and relationship building.  A young puppy eats such small meals that the first several weeks there is no reason for the pup to be fed from a food bowl.  Just 5-10 minutes every morning and evening teaching the beginning stages of marker training using a healthy and high quality puppy food will be their entire daily calorie intake.  Especially because you will be striving to work with your puppy 3 times a day utilizing the food that would normally go into a bowl.

Note that the dogs are all focused on me, not the food bowls

All great things must come from you.  This builds focus, motivation, and creates a relationship where the dog actively tries to please you to get what it wants. In adult dogs we sometimes refer to this training as a "nothing in life is free" method.  It's got a lot of great philosophies that are included in my training programs.

View this link to an older video I have taken utilizing marker training before I moved my business from Krystal's K-9 to K-9 180.

Socializing

Socializing your dog or puppy is very important!  It helps your puppy become comfortable with new, exciting, or potentially scary things, people, places, or noises.  An adult dog also benefits from socializing by gaining confidence and becoming more comfortable around different situations.

While it's best to start by properly socializing a dog during it's puppy stages, all ages, breeds, and sizes benefit.  The key to socializing it for the puppy or dog to enjoy these new experiences.
Let's visualize for a minute...

1. Image going to a new theme park, everyone's friendly, the lines are short, you get free soft drinks, and have a great time with family/friends.  
2. Now image going to a new theme park, there's trash everywhere, the lines are long and crowded, none of the staff are helpful, and your the group you went with is in a grumpy mood.  

I bet everyone had a better time at park #1!  The same is true with your dog, puppies are particularly sensitive due to their socialization (almost the first year but critically 8-16 weeks) and fear periods (8-12/16 weeks and some again around 6 months).  

Image all you ever see is your family, house, and backyard for the first 4 months of life.  Then one day you go into a box on wheels (the car) and all of a sudden nothing smells, looks, or sounds familiar.  Loud kids every where, noisy skate boards rushing past, your family is ignoring you and dozens of strange people with weird haircuts, perfumes, and hats are sticking their hands all over your face.  You're scared and have no idea how to feel!  This can be how your puppy or dog experiences their first outing.  Or the only time they go in the car is to the vet for shots and bloodwork.  Would you want to go to the park?  Or even get in the car?  

Proper socialization includes ensuring that your dog is comfortable and has an enjoyable time out learning to handle new situations.  Having your new puppy or dog of several years sit while kids and new people give them a special treat.  Encourage your puppy/dog to investigate and explore while staying safe.  Socializing with proper rewards, encouragement, and good manners is key for a well balanced dog.

Here's a challenge for you on socializing your puppy or dog.  This list will provide you with fresh ideas on things, people, places, and situations to introduce and experience.  Some are a little challenging.

Dog/Puppy Socialization Contest

Comment any additional ideas you have or challenges that you & your dog have experienced together!
Have fun and be safe!

Exercise

There are two types of exercise that we will focus on

• Physical Exercise - Every dog is an individual and while some dogs may only need a daily romp in the yard others may need long jogs twice a day.  What this comes down to is figuring out how much physical exercise your dog needs every day and a way to meet that need.
• Mental Exercise – As with physical exercise some dogs get enough mental stimulation watching out the front door, others need to track scents, herd sheep, learn new tricks or solve puzzles.

Both forms of exercise are important to a dog’s health and balance.  A dog that is not getting the physical or mental exercise it needs is likely to be unhappy, destructive, aggressive, have poor manners, or become prone to obesity.

                                         

Physical Exercise

            To begin with it is best to determine the level of exercise that your dog needs.  Once it’s understood how much physical exercise is needed a way to incorporate that into your lifestyle is necessary so that the dog can be provided with a good quality of living.  A balanced dog is happier, easier to train, and more sociable. Talk to your vet before starting an exercise program as younger, older, over/over weight dog, or dogs with special health needs may have limitations.

Types of physical exercise may include:

• Walking - if it's yucky weather go to a pet store to walk around!
• Jogging
• Swimming - swim in safe areas and have your dog use a lifejacket for safety
• Hiking
• Biking
• Playing fetch - can be done inside as well if it's too cold out

They do not include letting the dog roam outside, putting the dog in the backyard, or doggie daycare. 

Doggie daycare can be physical and mental exercise for a dog but should not entirely replace the structured physical exercise a dog needs to have with their owner.  Caution should be used when taking a dog to daycare or dog parks. 

Mental Exercise

            Again determine the level of mental stimulation that your dog needs.  Your dog maybe content calmly watching the birds and traffic outside of your window but would likely benefit from more.

Types of mental exercise may include:

•  Food Puzzles – Bob-a-lot, Buster Food Cube, Kibble Nibble, Tug-a-Jug
• Stuffed Kong – these can be stuffed with peanut butter or canned dog food and frozen
• Training – obedience training, agility, carting, scent detection, or other advanced training
• Socializing – dog parks, doggie daycare, playdates
• Environments – visiting pet stores, vet offices, parks, outdoor restaurants, new neighborhoods, farmer’s markets, festivals, anyplace that is safe for and allows your dog
• Toys – raw bones, nylabones, rawhides (if safe for your dog’s chewing habits), tug toys, or balls.  View our post on toys or talk with your vet to find the best toys for your dog!

The purpose of mental exercise is to keep your dog’s mind active.  Imagine having nothing to do all day except stare at four walls and a backyard.  No errands, work, chores, or friends visiting may sound nice for a day or two but after a while cabin fever sets in. 

A well exercised dog, or pack, is a tired and happy pack!

Remember

·         A bored dog with pent up energy is much more likely to be destructive and poorly mannered.

·         Physical and mental exercise is the foundations for a balanced happy dog.

·         Exercise as part of a lifestyle isn’t just healthy for your dog but for you too! 

Dog Toys

Chew Toys – once you find the correct chew toy that is safe for your dog you will be able to leave it out with them or in their crate

• Nylabone – Choose the correct type (puppy to extreme chewers) and size, I recommend going up a size especially for extreme chewers.
• Kong – Come in a puppy, adult, extreme, or senior type, sized based on weight.  Great toy when filled with canned dog food and frozen.
• GoughNuts – this donut shaped rubber toy is nearly indestructible and comes with a manufacturer guarantee (they stand by their product!)

      Food Puzzles – great ways for your dog to work for their food and keep them busy

• Bob-a-Lot – Fill this toy with your dog’s regular dry food.
• Tug-a-Jug – Same as above.  Be careful with the “rope” that stuck inside of this toy, many dogs and chew it apart and rope is not good for the stomach.
• Kong Wobbler – Same as above but no rope danger.

Other Toys – put these up once you’re done playing with your dog as they are not chew toys.

• Tugs – If you have a dog with a strong drive playing tug with a jute tug can be great fun.  Teach your dog to “release” command, and always be the one in control of the game.  Don’t let young children play tug with the dog.
• Kong Rubber Balls – These hold up much better than a tennis ball
• Jolly Ball – Hard rubber ball with a triangular handle on it, dogs can chew up the handle pretty easy so use it as a fetch toy only while supervised.
• Orbee-Tuff Ball – This ball sometimes is sold on a rope, remember to teach your dog to grab the ball, not the rope.  Again not a chew toy.
• Kong or Nylabone Frisbee – great for fetch, not meant as a chew toy.

Toys NOT Recommended or with Caution

• Stuffed animals or kids toys, shoes, even old ones that you don’t wear
• Cooked bones
• Rawhides/Dental Bones – watch your dog to determine if their chewing style is acceptable for them to have rawhides
• Here's a link to the ASPCA's Statement on Dog Chews/Treats

Remember there is no toy that is 100% indestructible.  Always supervise your dog with a new toy.  If a toy begins to show wear throw it away and replace it.

Puppy Care Basics

K-9 180

Basic Puppy Care and New Dog Information

I         Veterinary Care

      A)   Vaccinations are important for a puppy’s developing immune system

i)        DHPP – Distemper/Parvo Vaccine protects puppies against distemper, parvo virus, parainfluenza, and canine hepatitis.  There is a 1-year and 3-year vaccine available.  Annual titers may also be done to reduce the number of vaccines necessary throughout the life of the animal.

ii)      Rabies – this is a zoonotic disease and is a required vaccine for all dogs, cats, and ferrets.  There is a 1-year and 3-year vaccine available.  Annual titers can be done.

iii)    Bordetella – “Kennel Cough” is a very contagious disease among dogs.  It is recommended that this vaccine be updated every 6 months for optimal protection but owners may choose to update at least once a year.

      B)    Annual/Bi-Annual Visits – As dogs age much quicker than people it is recommended that you take your dog in for routine check-ups especially growing puppies and geriatric dogs.  Some routine topics that you will discuss with your veterinarian may included:

i)        Heartworm Test – heartworm disease is transmitted by mosquitoes and can be fatal.  Annual testing and prescribed monthly heartworm prevention helps to protect your dog from this preventable disease.  There are many products available on the market for the prevention of heartworm disease (some are now combined with flea protection), speak with your veterinarian about the right product for you and your dog.

ii)      Flea/Tick Prevention – some over-the-counter flea/tick products are not as effective or safe for your dog (or cat) as the products that you can purchase through your veterinarian.  It’s very important to discuss flea/tick prevention for your dog so that the best product can be used.

iii)    Parasite Test – “fecal” or “stool” sample tests can be run to check your dog for common intestinal parasites.  Some of these parasites are zoonotic meaning that they can be passed on to people or children through fecal material.

iv)    Bloodwork – puppies that are going to be neutered/spayed can have bloodwork done to check the health of the puppy prior to surgery.  As your dog ages it is recommended by some veterinarians to have routine bloodwork done as a screening for problems that can affect internal organs such as the thyroid, liver, or kidneys.

         C)    Nutrition

i)        Water – this is the most important nutrient for your dog.  Clean, fresh water should be available to your dog throughout their day.  Limiting your dog’s water intake will not prevent a dog from urinating in the house and can cause urinary problems.  (it is ok to withhold water from your dog a 2-3 hours prior to bedtime, a car ride, or when advised by your veterinarian)

ii)      Types of Dog Food - please refer to the post "Dog Food"

II      Training

      A)    Exercise – a tired dog is a happy dog.  This is a commonly used phrase and has a great deal of truth behind it.  A puppy or dog that has built up frustration from not burning off energy is going to be more difficult to train and live with. 

i)        Physical Exercise – playing with other puppies/dogs, walks, games (fetch, tug), swimming, and as the puppy gets older more vigorous activities like jogging, bicycling, and hiking.

ii)      Mental Exercise – keeping a puppy stimulated while by using food puzzles (stuffed Kong, food dispensing toy) and chew toys.  Remember chewing is a natural behavior for dogs, especially teething puppies!

      B)    Socializing – a well socialized dog is easier to care for and travel with.  Socializing a dog early in life will ensure a happy and balanced dog. 

i)        Meeting new people, dog, and animals, experiencing new places, sounds, scents, and textures.

ii)      Get your puppy used to being handled, this includes holding their paws, touching their teeth, opening the mouth, massaging the ears, and touching the tail.

      C)    Manners – well mannered dogs are easier to live with and guests appreciate a dog with good manners

i)        House training

ii)      Crate training

iii)    No jumping

iv)    Limited furniture access

      D)    Obedience – this is not just for fun but can be a real life-saver and safety for you and your dog

i)        “Watch Me” – this is used to gain your dog’s attention and focus

ii)      Recall – getting your dog to come back to you when called.  Teaching the recall command maybe one of the most important, especially around distractions and situations that can be dangerous (heavy traffic areas).

iii)    “Sit” – teaching “sit” is the basis for much of the other obedience and manners training.  Being able to ask your puppy to perform a behavior so they can get what they want (going out the door, coming out of their crate, or sitting to have their leash put on).

iv)    “Down”

v)      “Kennel” or “Bed” – being able to send your dog to their own space

vi)    “Wait” and “Stay” – these are actually two different commands.  Wait is commonly used to let a dog know that they cannot go in or out of an entryway.  Stay is used to ask a dog not to move from the position they are in until released.

vii)  Walking on a Leash – most cities and counties have leash laws that require dogs to be keep on leash when off the owner’s property.  Walks and exercise is much easier when both you and your dog can enjoy the time spent without pulling, tugging, and the potential danger from a dog that can pull you down or knock you over.

viii)            “Drop It” and “Leave It” – these commands are a safety must.  If your dog were to get something in their mouth that was not safe for them or something valuable to you, it’s nice to know that they are willing to give up the object without a chase.  The same goes for “leave it”, if something dangerous, dark chocolate candies, your puppy will refrain from taking the candies off the floor.

        E)     Equipment

i)        Leash – nylon or leather 4’ or 6’ leashes are ideal for training purposes.  Flexi-leashes are not recommended as they tend to provide a dog with too much room and can be dangerous.

ii)      Collar – selecting the appropriate collar will depend on the age, breed, size, and temperament of the dog

(a)    Nylon or Leather Buckle Collar

(b)   Herm-Springer Prong Collar

(c)    Martingale Collar

(d)   Nylon Slip Collar

(e)    Limited Slip or Greyhound Collar

(f)     Head Halter

(g)   Choke Chain

iii)    Identification

(a)    Tag – this is usually a metal tag that is attached to the dog’s collar with the owner’s contact information

(b)   Microchip – this internal device is implanted by your veterinarian or rescue organization and becomes a more permanent identification for your dog.  A microchip is about the size of a grain of rice and when scanned gives off a barcode number that is linked to the owner’s information

iv)    Treats

(a)    High Value – hot dog, boiled chicken, diced rolled dog food, lean cooked meat, peanut butter, maintain a variety

(b)   Lower Value – cheerios (plain or honey nut), milkbones, and their own dog food

v)      Toys

(a)    Kong – check for the correct size and type of Kong for your dog.  Good for your dog to chew on and can be used as a food puzzle when filled with peanut butter or canned dog food (try freezing it too!)

(i)     Kong also makes hard rubber balls great for dogs that chew up tennis balls too quickly

(b)   Nylabone – again they have many sizes and strengths to match your dog’s chewing needs

(c)    Kibble Nibble – interactive food puzzle

(d)   Tug-a-Jug – interactive food puzzle

(e)    Jolly Ball – make sturdy balls and some interactive food puzzles

III   Desensitizing – getting your puppy used to being handled by people

      A)    Grooming

i)        Ears – play with your puppy’s ears, some day they may need to have them cleaned or medication for an infection

ii)      Mouth – get your puppy used to having their mouth opened and teeth touched so that you can brush y our puppies teeth

iii)    Paws – handle your puppies paws, use a nail file or small dog nail trimmers

iv)    Fur – brush your puppy from head to tail

      B)    Handling – your puppy needs to be comfortable with being handled by multiple people

i)        Collar/leash – reward your puppy for having their collar and leash put on

ii)      Turn your puppy on its back and reward for being calm

iii)    Gently tug on your puppy’s ears, tail, paws, or fur and reward for accepting the touch (this helps especially if your puppy will be around children in the future)

Dog Food

Wow!  This is always a HUGE topic of debate among breeders, veterinarians, dog trainers, commercial dog food companies, and has spent a lot of time in the media.
I will start by simply breaking down the categories of different types of dog food and review the pros, the cons, and what is important to you and your dog.

Fresh Dog Foods - these would be the dog foods that you find in the refrigerated section of grocery and pet stores.  Personally they are my favorite and here are the reasons why.
      1. Convenience - you don't have to go through a lot of trouble.  Some come in meatball shapes so that you can measure it out like dry dog food or rolls that you slice like thick bologna.  However you do have to be careful and ensure that you use the food within a week of opening just like our food.
      2. Nutrition - these foods offer high quality proteins, low grains, and generally aren't too high in fat.
Dry Dog Food - the most common dog food available, there are hundreds of brands, each with different sub-brands, flavors, styles, ect...most are heavily marketed large companies.
      1. Convenience - the number one reason to feed dry dog food is because it is convenient, easy to store and doesn't spoil quickly.
      2. Nutrition - unfortunately dry dog foods have a much harder time of getting quality ingredients and being nutritious for you pet.  There are some great quality dry dog foods out there Orijen, Innova, Merrick, Taste of the Wild, Blue, the list goes on with the great quality dry dog foods.  However you will be paying for them as a 20lb bag can cost up to $70.  They will also likely require a trip to a pet store or even specialty pet store as most grocery stores don't yet carry these high end brands.
Canned Dog Food - the second most commonly found dog food.  While there are quality canned dog foods, mostly ones made by the high quality commercial dog food companies, most found in grocery stores are not.
      1. Convenient - Moderately, you have to open the can, put it in the bowl, and possibly refrigerate any leftovers so that they do not spoil.
      2. Nutrition - There are some very nutritious canned dog foods but you will likely pay $2-3/can which can add up quickly when feeding a large dog.  Lower costing canned foods tend to have lots of fillers and be high in fat.  Canned dog food can also have poor side effects on your dog's dental health.
RAW Dog Food - these foods have recently become extremely popular and are available in frozen patties, frozen meatballs, freeze-dried styles, and fresh.
      1. Convenience - Certain brands have made the frozen and freeze-dried styles of raw dog food relatively convenient to feed as long as they are stored properly.  However raw dog food does present the same risks to human health as any raw meat.  Therefore careful preparation of the food and disinfecting of surfaces is necessary.  You also may not want your dog licking you following a meal.
      2. Nutrition - High scores go to this category for nutritional value as the brands that tend to produce these diets go to lengths to ensure they are using high quality ingredients.  Cost will be a factor with this style of dog food.  You will have to understand that you are also accepting risks of exposure to bacteria and parasites if these foods are not properly handled.
Homemade Dog Food - making your own dog food
      1. Convenient - This is definitely not a convenient way to feed your dog. Preparing a properly nutritious meal for your dog takes lots of education, prep time, and required storage in a refrigerator or freezer. If you want to feed a homemade diet it is best to talk with your veterinarian and have routine check ups to ensure that your dog's diet is meeting their nutritional needs.  There is considerable a lot of work to be done to feed your dog a healthy completely homemade diet.
      2. Nutrition - A proper homemade diet can be extremely nutritious for your dog as you will likely be using human grade ingredients.  While one would think the cost would be high, done properly a homemade diet can be affordable if care is taken with your ingredient purchases.

All in all how do you know what is best for you and your dog?  Here's what it really comes down to.  Feed your dog a food that is nutritious.  One that has high quality meats, low in grains, and as few fillers as you can afford.  Make sure you are comfortable with the type of food you are feeding your dog.  While a fresh, raw, or homemade diet might sound more nutritious there are several great brands of dry dog food available to make feeding more convenient.  Plus you can always supplement with an occasional can of salmon, or a package of fresh dog food.

While table scraps are a poor choice mostly due to our own unhealthy eating habits a little scrambled egg, unseasoned lean meats, and even some cooked veggies are great additions to a dog's food bowl (please avoid feeding your dog from the table).

If your dog has any health conditions speak with your veterinarian to find a diet that will help your dog as many health conditions require special diets with different nutritional content.  A dog on medications may also have certain foods that should be avoided all together.

If all else fails just try to feed your dog the best dog food you can afford at the time.  Even I survived a few weeks here and there in college eating nothing but Ramen Noodles.  If there's a few weeks where you have to cut down to something more economical until you can go back to a higher grade food don't worry.  It's the long term nutrition that we're going for.

Any dog food means that you are caring for you companion as best as possible and a loving owner and any bowl of food is going to equal a dog happy to see you every day.

If you're looking for specific information regarding a brand of dog food check out the
DogFoodAdvisor as they have reviewed and rated many brands of dog food.  You'll find great information on nutritional content here as well as how to read the ingredients label.